Route starts after the first steeper section at a right leaning chimney on the same approach as “Gotcha” and “Oreamos”.
See Bow Valley Rock pages 80-83.
Having 2 X 60 m ropes and double rope techniques are essential to climb these routes and gear up to 2”.
This is a very good route that climbs a direct line from the lowest to the highest point on Goat Slabs. Overall the rock quality is very good to excellent and the climbing consistent at the 5.9 and 5.10 grades.
This tower has excellent rock and the routes are super fun. Both are well protected and away from any crowds and unfortunately any sun. Don’t even
worry about the approach, its closer then Yam?
Approach: Traverse along the base of EEOR and around into the bowl between EEOR
and La Bastile (2nd buttress). Climb up into bowl on good game trails until the tower can
be seen. Scramble up to base. About 1.5 hours
Gear: Standard Rack to 4 inches, double .5-2 inches. Hammer and pins are useful, I left
The route is located to the right of the route “Wendigo” detailed on a cliff photo on page 82 of “Bow Valley Rock” (guide) by Chris perry and Joe Josephson. The line ascends a devious line up dark grey rock to enter a huge hanging U-shaped gully from the left. This obvious feature is located roughly near the center of “Goat Wall” one hundred metres below the summit ridge. At the base of the cliff locate an obvious right facing dihedral located below and just left of this obvious feature on the upper face. This hanging gully “drains” a huge hidden bowl and much of the upper mountain.
This excellent route in the CMC Valley is located on the wall left of the Ripple wall immediately left of the pillar of Isenguard. It climbs up a prominent shield of steep grey rock. Walk up the scree cone to its apex. This route begins in a corner crack system to the right of the dead tree. Look for a bolt about 6m up.
This excellent modern mixed route follows a steep, direct natural feature from bottom to top. The rock is mainly excellent and in some places exceptional. Some loose rock does exist but tends to be on the easy pitches. The climbing is varied and exciting and most of the belays are on big comfortable ledges, with the exception of pitches 5 and 6 which just have small foot ledges.
Stations 1-8 are all equipped with ring bolt anchors. Station 9 is a single bolt and gear and after that arboreal belays exist.
A great days adventure.
AKA: The Bolt.
A Lightning Shaped line on the NW Shoulder of Hai Ling
From Brandon Pullan:
"I spotted this obvious line in the winter and thought it looked wild, it resem-
bles a lightning bolt. We did it car to car in 3 hours and used no bolts. The
belays are not fixed but are easy to find and build. The route takes an ob-
vious ramp, 7 pitches, to another leftward ramp, 2 pitches, to a final right-
ward ramp, 3 pitches. The crux pitches are 5 & 6. They are slightly runout
Two Routes by Brandon Pullan
McGillivraneering
5.9, 200+m FA: Brandon Pullan (ropesolo) june/05
Taiga
5.7, 170m FA: Brandon Pullan (ropesolo) june/05
The climb is Located to the right of the Maker and was originally attempted by the late Simon Parboosingh
and Anthony Neilson. After several years of neglect it was pushed to the top of the wall, which took two
days due to very cold temperatures on the first attempt. The first pitch thwarted several attempts
by Andy and goes with a hang on the crux due to a lack of stamina and raw fingers. This pitch
was redpointed in 2002 by R. Slawinski. The grade was confirmed at 12a and took a couple of
A new multi-pitch bolted route that shares some climbing with SOD (Sea of Dreams) and Three Roofs. The crux is right off the ground, but well protected. Stick clip the second bolt to protect an awkward move. (If you don't want to carry a stick up to the crag, you can A0 on the first bolt to reach the second bolt to set up the clip). The start of this pitch may also be used to access SOD (and is much nicer climbing) by moving left at the 4th bolt . The last pitch is 40m, but you can rap on one 60m rope by using the SOD rap stations. Some of the best limestone you'll find in the Rockies.
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