Canmore

EEOR North Tower

Submitted by admintvr on Sat, 07/11/2009 - 20:32

This tower has excellent rock and the routes are super fun.  Both are well protected and away from any crowds and unfortunately any sun. Don’t even
worry about the approach, its closer then Yam?
Approach: Traverse along the base of EEOR and around into the bowl between EEOR
and La Bastile (2nd buttress).  Climb up into bowl on good game trails until the tower can
be seen.  Scramble up to base. About 1.5 hours
Gear: Standard Rack to 4 inches, double .5-2 inches.  Hammer and pins are useful, I left

Hand in the Honey Pot, 500m 5.11b/c

Submitted by admintvr on Sat, 07/11/2009 - 20:43

This excellent modern mixed route follows a steep, direct natural feature from bottom to top. The rock is mainly excellent and in some places exceptional. Some loose rock does exist but tends to be on the easy pitches. The climbing is varied and exciting and most of the belays are on big comfortable ledges, with the exception of pitches 5 and 6 which just have small foot ledges. 
Stations 1-8 are all equipped with ring bolt anchors. Station 9 is a single bolt and gear and after that arboreal belays exist.
A great days adventure.
 

The NW Shoulder 5.7, 600M

Submitted by admintvr on Sat, 07/11/2009 - 20:51

AKA: The Bolt.
A Lightning Shaped line on the NW Shoulder of Hai Ling
From Brandon Pullan:
"I spotted this obvious line in the winter and thought it looked wild, it resem-
bles a lightning bolt.  We did it car to car in 3 hours and used no bolts.  The
belays are not fixed but are easy to find and build.  The route takes an ob-
vious ramp, 7 pitches, to another leftward ramp, 2 pitches, to a final right-
ward ramp, 3 pitches.  The crux pitches are 5 & 6.  They are slightly runout

Rim Job 5.10- 400m+

Submitted by BP on Mon, 09/07/2009 - 23:02

Rim Wall
On the north face of the Rim Wall rises a chimney crack system about 100m or so right of Candle in the Wind (the obvious arête). Start 15m to the right in a short corner.
Rim Job 5.10- 400m+
Brandon Pullan, Matt Brooks Aug/09

Climb a pitch to a ledge, traverse left into corner. Up the corner, deviating out left in some spots, where the obvious corner peters out climb a steep slab (fixed pin) into the upper awkward chimney to an interesting finish. No bolts.

Graceland - "new" climbs

Submitted by jon on Mon, 10/25/2010 - 10:33

1. It's Now or Never (5.11a) . Nigel & Rosie Slater. June 2010. Breaks out left from midway anchor on Mempis. 6 (new) clips (total 13). <30 m to ground.

2. Unnamed route to R of Honeymoon in Vegas is called Moody Blue, 11b. Nigel & Rosie Slater. October 2007.

Canmore Wall: "Kurihara" (5.10d, 430 m)

Submitted by admintvr on Wed, 08/24/2011 - 12:24

"This route was put up in tribute to Jiro Kurihara who passed away in an avalanche in Alaska in May 2011.
Jiro was a passionate climber who lived in Canmore because he loved the Canadian Rockies.

The route was bolted ground up on four days in July 2011. Mike Shoemaker, Christoph Spiegel, Aki Tawara, and Patrick Lindsay were patient belay partners on the first four days. Thank you very much.

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