Ghost River

Little Egypt

Egyptian Amphitheater  Bastion Wall, the Ghost River Wilderness The Egyptian amphitheater is the north most rock climbing area in the ghost and is also home to some of the most moderate routes in the ghost. The walls tend to be less steep and made of generally good quality rock with excellent natural protection.

Ghost Sport Climbs

Several fine multi-pitch sport routes can be found in Minnewanka Valley-Devils Gap Crags (Phantom Bluffs, Wild West Wall etc.) and Ghost River Valley Crags (North Phantom, Siver-Tongued Devil, Bastion etc.):   

Seven Pillars of Wisdom

A collection of shattered pillars which lie in front of the Grey Ghost Wall towards the left end between the
climbs “Helmet Crack” and “Zephyr” and are separated from the main face by a scree gully that slopes
down to southern exposure. The largest pillar located in the southwest corner of this jumbled formation is
the “Storm Tower” Two other towers major towers lie to the north between the main wall and Storm
Tower. Recently these two towers have had routes installed. The west tower of these two is the CMC
Tower and the east is Cloud Tower.
 

Sentinel Crag (Ghost)

One Cool Mouse *** 5.10c 75m. Gear draws, protection to 2”
(p1) B Spear, J Josephson, July 1996 ground up (p2,p3) B Spear, A Sheldon, M Tremblay July 2004 rappel bolted and cleaned.

Strange Fire * 5.10a 75m. Gear draws, protection to 3”
(p1) B Spear, R-C Bastien, July 2004 ground up (p2,p3) B Spear, J Demontigny July 2004 Ground up.

Thanksgiving ** 5.10c 72m. Gear draws, long slings
(p1) B Spear, M Tremblay, August 2004 ground up (p2,p3) B Spear, M Miller Thanksgiving 2004 Ground up.

The Big Chill 180 m, 5.11+ A0 or 5.12a

The climb is Located to the right of the Maker and was originally attempted by the late Simon Parboosingh
and Anthony Neilson. After several years of neglect it was pushed to the top of the wall, which took two
days due to very cold temperatures on the first attempt. The first pitch thwarted several attempts
by Andy and goes with a hang on the crux due to a lack of stamina and raw fingers. This pitch
was redpointed in 2002 by R. Slawinski. The grade was confirmed at 12a and took a couple of

Blowing in the wind

Blowing in the Wind ** 5.10, 100m
D. Wilding & M. Bramble, April '08

3 pitches of quality crack climbing on the large wall (The flight deck??) east of Alberta Jam.

Rack: 70m rope, micro cams, med wires, doubles from .75" - 4", several long slings.

Approach: As for "Alberta Jam," trending up and right above the first slab. Some exposed scrambling required.

Weird Tales (Free) - STD Wall

User "marcus" writes:

Hi
Just want to let folks know the 3rd pitch of this route (5.9 A0) just left of the wet streak far right, goes very free at 11-, mebbe 11c.
Just grab a mitfull of prickly rock undercling with the left hand to gain a sloping rail with the right.

Phasmophobia** 5.10+, 110m

Phasmophobia is a great 3 pitch route located in the Phobia Amphitheater (Hydrophobia drainage) in the Waiporous wilderness area. We approached from marker 38 in the North Ghost and followed quad tracks on mountain bikes for a couple of hours before dumping the bikes and hiking the last couple of kilometers to get there... an approach from the Waipourous side might be quicker. The setting is stellar... think the Ghost about 15 years ago, before it became a haven for random camping and OHV use and the climbing and rock are pretty good too.

STD Wall Left - New Routes

A number of new sport routes have been added to STD Wall Left in the Ghost. This part of the wall offers shorter climbs than the rest of the STD Wall, but provides some great climbing in the 5.8 to 5.10 grade on the same kind of amazing rock as the Central and Right walls.

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