Grotto Mountain

Planet X, Cougar Canyon

Submitted by jon on Thu, 01/29/2009 - 14:52

The "X" is actually a Roman numeral and so should be pronounced "ten" and not "ex." However, this distinction has been lost and most climbers today (the author included) pronounce it "planet ex." This is one of Alberta's premier crags for higher end grades. Many of the routes are long, so bring a 70 m rope and 18-20 draws. Always tie a knot in the end of your rope - some of the longer routes are rope stretchers, even with a 70 m rope. And wait for a warm day - the cliff faces north and never sees the sun.

Echo Canyon: The Hideaway

Submitted by jon on Wed, 02/04/2009 - 12:04

The Hideaway is the first of the climbing areas encountered as one proceeds up the canyon behind the ACC Clubhouse. In addition to the climbs shown on the topo, there is a 27 m 10 clip 5.10 called "Hidden Pleasures" just left of "Mantle Delight" and an easier alternative start to the right of the original 12a start to "Waiting for the Sun", which makes a very nice 5.11 route.
 

 

Echo Canyon: The Coliseum

Submitted by jon on Tue, 07/14/2009 - 21:05

2009 era notes:The Coliseum is significant new sport climbing area on Grotto Mountain that has beenunder development since spring 2005.  It is located in the large canyon west of Bataan, aone hour hike from the Alpine Club of Canada. Currently there are a dozen or so routes that range in length from 12m to 45m. Yes, 45m. The grade spread is from 11a to 13d. The crag consists of three different sectors that vary greatly in character.  The Saddle-up sector is long, steep endurance climbing that feels more adventurous than the average sport crag.

Prospect (Echo Canyon, Grotto Mountain)

Submitted by jon on Wed, 06/16/2010 - 20:09

A 4-pitch sport route (10b/c ish) about 15 minutes uphill from The Hideaway, between Echo Cave to its left and The Lookout to its right. Catches the sun for most of the day, so it might be possible to climb here on a warm winter day (but could be uncomfortably warm on a hot summer day).

For how to get to The Hideaway see:

http://tabvar.org/sites/default/files/Coliseum_write_up_1.pdf

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