Mount Cory

Cory's Groove

Cory’s Groove * 5.9, 455 m. Gear to 4”, 60 m rope(s) essential, 16 draws including 4 - 5 long slings.
F.A. Andy Genereux and Gord Rinke


Guides Rock, Turf Wars

A new multi-pitch bolted route that shares some climbing with SOD (Sea of Dreams) and Three Roofs. The crux is right off the ground, but well protected. Stick clip the second bolt to protect an awkward move. (If you don't want to carry a stick up to the crag, you can A0 on the first bolt to reach the second bolt to set up the clip). The start of this pitch may also be used to access SOD (and is much nicer climbing) by moving left at the 4th bolt . The last pitch is 40m, but you can rap on one 60m rope by using the SOD rap stations. Some of the best limestone you'll find in the Rockies.

Spectacular Megafauna (Mt Edith)

Another multi-pitch sport route recently revealed by Dave Thomson. The climbing is "technical" so don't expect to find the grades soft. Wait for warm weather (next year?) Dave was one bolt short somewhere on the last (?) pitch, so be prepared to run it out a little more there or carry a telescopic stick to clip the next bolt until someone installs the bolt (the hole is drilled).

Niagra on the Bow 5.9+, 245m

Niagra on the Bow 5.9+ 245m

FA: Brandon Pullan, Urs Kallen Sept. 09

Approach: As for Cory’s Groove on Mt. Cory.

The route climbs the face right of the large black slab, up a series of corner. All anchors are rigged with ring bolts.

P1: (55m, 5.8) Start as for Cory’s Groove, after the first bolt traverse up to a blocky yellow corner past 2 bolts.

P2: (45m,5.9+) Aim for the large corner, stem up this awesome pitch passing a few bolts to a ledge.

Mt Cory South Peak, West Face

Two routes in the Cory Crack area: Mountaineer's Route (9-13 pitches plus some scrambling, 5.8 or 5.7), this is all bolted but not a beginner's route. It's more like the Kain Route on Mt Louis.

Hoka Hey (9 pitches, 5.8), mixed bolts and gear on mostly good to excellent rock.

Cory's Bloody Gash 5.10-, 255m

From Chris Volkart via the TABVAR Facebook page:

Cory's Bloody Gash 255m, 5.10-

FA J. Mills, Cory Boshman, Chris Volkart Sept 4, 2014

This route starts at an obvious crack 70m right of the spillway, it takes a series of corner systems up the right side of the crossing the route Niagra on the Bow at both routes 2nd pitch. The route gets its name from an unfortunate foot injury on the first ascent due to loose rock. Large rocks were removed on the first ascent, however some loose rock no doubt remains.