Path of the Goatman ** 5.11b, 345m
Andy Genereux & Peter Gatzsch
This climb is located on the upper reaches of Goat Mountain following the good grey
rock left of the climb “The Wild Colonial Boys” described in “Bow Valley Rock” page 87.
The route is a mixture of protection bolts with extensive natural protection.
All belays but the final one are bolted.
The "X" is actually a Roman numeral and so should be pronounced "ten" and not "ex." However, this distinction has been lost and most climbers today (the author included) pronounce it "planet ex." This is one of Alberta's premier crags for higher end grades. Many of the routes are long, so bring a 70 m rope and 18-20 draws. Always tie a knot in the end of your rope - some of the longer routes are rope stretchers, even with a 70 m rope. And wait for a warm day - the cliff faces north and never sees the sun.
The Hideaway is the first of the climbing areas encountered as one proceeds up the canyon behind the ACC Clubhouse. In addition to the climbs shown on the topo, there is a 27 m 10 clip 5.10 called "Hidden Pleasures" just left of "Mantle Delight" and an easier alternative start to the right of the original 12a start to "Waiting for the Sun", which makes a very nice 5.11 route.
The route description is not complete for this route.
I've attached a couple comments that might be useful.
From Sarah Hueniken.
Short, mostly easy, bolted routes on south facing slabs near Heart Creek.
Topos of crags that appeared in earlier editions of Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies and have since been deleted. For one reason or another, these crags were seldom visited.
Metaphysical Wall
Bathtub Brook
The Alcove
Lorette Slab
Kilowatt Crag
Note: The approach to Bathtub Brook crosses private land.
1 minute uphill from the left hand side of Poolside Crag. The routes are all quite short, but have surprisingly nice climbing.
"Beautiful Century"
230m 7 Pitch 5.10a All Bolted
Bow Corridor, Nanny Goat
First ascent: Brian Spear, Jeff Storck Spring 2006
8 quick draws, 4 long slings, 2 anchor slings. 60m rope.
This is a multi-pitch route on the right side of Nanny Goat Buttress just left of the winter route "Coire
Dubh" and left of the routes "Less Art, More Pop" and "The Bell Route" - as described in the new "Sport
Route starts after the first steeper section at a right leaning chimney on the same approach as “Gotcha” and “Oreamos”.
See Bow Valley Rock pages 80-83.
Having 2 X 60 m ropes and double rope techniques are essential to climb these routes and gear up to 2”.
This is a very good route that climbs a direct line from the lowest to the highest point on Goat Slabs. Overall the rock quality is very good to excellent and the climbing consistent at the 5.9 and 5.10 grades.
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