Bow Valley

Pinko (IV, 5.9) Rim Wall

Submitted by BP on Fri, 09/13/2013 - 15:56

"The name is slang for someone who holds moderately leftist views and the route keeps trending left (quoted from Jones who did the FA with George Homer in '73) Sustained 5.8 climbing with occasional 5.10- moves. Intricate rock with amazing position and positive belay stances. Could be the Squamish Buttress of Canmore with more traffic," said Jon Walsh.

Gift Card 90M 10C

Submitted by Ian.Greant on Fri, 07/11/2014 - 11:45

Gift Card 90M 10C
Armadillo Buttress, Grotto Canyon, Alberta.
Ian Greant, Brian Spear - 2013

This three pitch route is fully bolt protected with rap rings at each station.
I believe it crosses Asylum (10D, 1984, pg 423 Bow Valley Rock banffrock.ca for PDF copy) on the 3rd pitch.

Gear required: 70m rope (a 60M may work for descent but have not tested it)
14 draws (if you use a directional off the belay and want to clip the station when you arrive)

Gobi65 - 265 5.10a or 5.8A0

Submitted by Ian.Greant on Thu, 05/28/2015 - 23:00

This six-pitch mixed route ascends the centre line of Gobi Buttress on the NNE side of Mount McGillivray.

The route climbs an aesthetic buttress on above-average quality limestone with some worthwhile gear climbing.

See attached files for complete description.

 

Gobi65

Climbing is mostly 5.6-5.7 with short cruxes.

EEOR's Tail - Update

Submitted by carlsonmark on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 21:09

EEOR'S TAIL ADJUSTMENT!
The following is intended to bring some clarification and adjustment to my MCR regarding Castle Mountain and EEOR’s TAIL that I posted on the 2nd.
 

Cougar Creek New Crag - Sugar Shack

Submitted by carlsonmark on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 21:24

This is the very first crag you will reach about 12 minutes from the car. It is on the right (SE) side of the creek at the first mandatory crossing just after the well traveled trail in the woods which is optional after the large pile of boulders.

The crag is short but burly. The rock is surprisingly good though it might be a tad dusty.

Grotto Canyon - You're Only Cheating Yourself

Submitted by carlsonmark on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 21:31

"You're Only Cheating Yourself" 12a
FA Mason Tessier (July 20, 2013)

A blank looking line located to the right and up the hill from "Watusi Wedding" and "Jesus Drives a Cadillac" at the end of the Paintings Wall. Starting right of the ledge, crimpy and technical face climbing leads to the anchors 8m. If you use the ledge "you're only cheating yourself".

Pages