Bow Valley

EEOR North Tower

Submitted by admintvr on Sat, 07/11/2009 - 20:32

This tower has excellent rock and the routes are super fun.  Both are well protected and away from any crowds and unfortunately any sun. Don’t even
worry about the approach, its closer then Yam?
Approach: Traverse along the base of EEOR and around into the bowl between EEOR
and La Bastile (2nd buttress).  Climb up into bowl on good game trails until the tower can
be seen.  Scramble up to base. About 1.5 hours
Gear: Standard Rack to 4 inches, double .5-2 inches.  Hammer and pins are useful, I left

Drain Game 5.11c, 420m

Submitted by admintvr on Sat, 07/11/2009 - 20:37

The route is located to the right of the route “Wendigo” detailed on a cliff photo on page 82 of “Bow Valley Rock” (guide) by Chris perry and Joe Josephson. The line ascends a devious line up dark grey rock to enter a huge hanging U-shaped gully from the left. This obvious feature is located roughly near the center of “Goat Wall” one hundred metres below the summit ridge.  At the base of the cliff locate an obvious right facing dihedral located below and just left of this obvious feature on the upper face. This hanging gully “drains” a huge hidden bowl and much of the upper mountain.

Out of the Silent Planet 115m, 5.11b

Submitted by admintvr on Sat, 07/11/2009 - 20:39

This excellent route in the CMC Valley is located on the wall left of the Ripple wall immediately left of the pillar of Isenguard. It climbs up a prominent shield of steep grey rock. Walk up the scree cone to its apex. This route begins in a corner crack system to the right of the dead tree. Look for a bolt about 6m up.
 

Hand in the Honey Pot, 500m 5.11b/c

Submitted by admintvr on Sat, 07/11/2009 - 20:43

This excellent modern mixed route follows a steep, direct natural feature from bottom to top. The rock is mainly excellent and in some places exceptional. Some loose rock does exist but tends to be on the easy pitches. The climbing is varied and exciting and most of the belays are on big comfortable ledges, with the exception of pitches 5 and 6 which just have small foot ledges. 
Stations 1-8 are all equipped with ring bolt anchors. Station 9 is a single bolt and gear and after that arboreal belays exist.
A great days adventure.
 

The NW Shoulder 5.7, 600M

Submitted by admintvr on Sat, 07/11/2009 - 20:51

AKA: The Bolt.
A Lightning Shaped line on the NW Shoulder of Hai Ling
From Brandon Pullan:
"I spotted this obvious line in the winter and thought it looked wild, it resem-
bles a lightning bolt.  We did it car to car in 3 hours and used no bolts.  The
belays are not fixed but are easy to find and build.  The route takes an ob-
vious ramp, 7 pitches, to another leftward ramp, 2 pitches, to a final right-
ward ramp, 3 pitches.  The crux pitches are 5 & 6.  They are slightly runout

McGillivray Slabs

Submitted by admintvr on Sun, 07/12/2009 - 00:35

Two Routes by Brandon Pullan
McGillivraneering
5.9, 200+m FA: Brandon Pullan (ropesolo) june/05
Taiga
5.7, 170m FA: Brandon Pullan (ropesolo) june/05

Echo Canyon: The Coliseum

Submitted by jon on Tue, 07/14/2009 - 21:05

2009 era notes:The Coliseum is significant new sport climbing area on Grotto Mountain that has beenunder development since spring 2005.  It is located in the large canyon west of Bataan, aone hour hike from the Alpine Club of Canada. Currently there are a dozen or so routes that range in length from 12m to 45m. Yes, 45m. The grade spread is from 11a to 13d. The crag consists of three different sectors that vary greatly in character.  The Saddle-up sector is long, steep endurance climbing that feels more adventurous than the average sport crag.

Rim Job 5.10- 400m+

Submitted by BP on Mon, 09/07/2009 - 23:02

Rim Wall
On the north face of the Rim Wall rises a chimney crack system about 100m or so right of Candle in the Wind (the obvious arête). Start 15m to the right in a short corner.
Rim Job 5.10- 400m+
Brandon Pullan, Matt Brooks Aug/09

Climb a pitch to a ledge, traverse left into corner. Up the corner, deviating out left in some spots, where the obvious corner peters out climb a steep slab (fixed pin) into the upper awkward chimney to an interesting finish. No bolts.

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