Several fine multi-pitch sport routes can be found in Minnewanka Valley-Devils Gap Crags (Phantom Bluffs, Wild West Wall etc.) and Ghost River Valley Crags (North Phantom, Siver-Tongued Devil, Bastion etc.):
Path of the Goatman ** 5.11b, 345m
Andy Genereux & Peter Gatzsch
This climb is located on the upper reaches of Goat Mountain following the good grey
rock left of the climb “The Wild Colonial Boys” described in “Bow Valley Rock” page 87.
The route is a mixture of protection bolts with extensive natural protection.
All belays but the final one are bolted.
A collection of shattered pillars which lie in front of the Grey Ghost Wall towards the left end between the
climbs “Helmet Crack” and “Zephyr” and are separated from the main face by a scree gully that slopes
down to southern exposure. The largest pillar located in the southwest corner of this jumbled formation is
the “Storm Tower” Two other towers major towers lie to the north between the main wall and Storm
Tower. Recently these two towers have had routes installed. The west tower of these two is the CMC
Tower and the east is Cloud Tower.
A great mini-guide to climbing and other adventures that can be found in Kananaskis and around Calgary.
Thanks to Greg Cornell for compiling this.
Kananaskis Obscure Version 1 - 2004
Includes: The Fold, aid routes near Barrier dam, Rucksack Ridge and others.
Kananaskis Obscure Version 2 - 2005
Includes: Maya's Route, Wasootch Tower, Friends, Ivana Humpless and more.
The "X" is actually a Roman numeral and so should be pronounced "ten" and not "ex." However, this distinction has been lost and most climbers today (the author included) pronounce it "planet ex." This is one of Alberta's premier crags for higher end grades. Many of the routes are long, so bring a 70 m rope and 18-20 draws. Always tie a knot in the end of your rope - some of the longer routes are rope stretchers, even with a 70 m rope. And wait for a warm day - the cliff faces north and never sees the sun.
A great looking multi-pitch bolted route by Dave Thomson located just left of Bourgeau Left Hand.
A number of link-ups have been established on Petra (Prairie Creek. p. 326). Some of these are reported to be "better" than the original climbs as shown on the topo in the guidebook.
1. Swimming to Cambodia, 13a. Start on Bible Prophecy, traverse left at the bulge past a connecting bolt into Mighty Expectations. Continue left into A67 to finish.
2. Saint Daren, 12a. Same start as Bible Prophecy. Once on Mighty, finish as per that route.
3. Bible Juice, 12c. Same start as Bible Prophecy. Up and traverse left to where Booty Juice meets. Finish on that line.
The Hideaway is the first of the climbing areas encountered as one proceeds up the canyon behind the ACC Clubhouse. In addition to the climbs shown on the topo, there is a 27 m 10 clip 5.10 called "Hidden Pleasures" just left of "Mantle Delight" and an easier alternative start to the right of the original 12a start to "Waiting for the Sun", which makes a very nice 5.11 route.
The route description is not complete for this route.
I've attached a couple comments that might be useful.
From Sarah Hueniken.
Worth putting on your list if you are a slab aficionado. Offerings, dating from 1985 and 1986, by Tom Fayle and (the late) Mark DeLeeuw.
Topo taken from "Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies 1996 Revised Edition."
TABVAR - The Association of Bow Valley Rock Climbers
Copyright © 2024,
Design by Zymphonies
