Megabump *** 265 m. 5.11a
Submitted by Ian.Greant on Fri, 05/21/2010 - 00:071st ascent: Allan Derbyshire, Choc Quinn, Kevin Embacher
1st ascent: Allan Derbyshire, Choc Quinn, Kevin Embacher
A 4-pitch sport route (10b/c ish) about 15 minutes uphill from The Hideaway, between Echo Cave to its left and The Lookout to its right. Catches the sun for most of the day, so it might be possible to climb here on a warm winter day (but could be uncomfortably warm on a hot summer day).
For how to get to The Hideaway see:
http://tabvar.org/sites/default/files/Coliseum_write_up_1.pdf
This section of cliff is the most extensive of all the buttresses in the long line of cliffs that
runs along the base of Cascade Mountain. It stretches eastward (northward) from the deep gully that separates it from Mothers Day Buttress to
the long, southeast ridge of Cascade Mountain (Minnewanka Buttress) where the cliffs
curve around to the north and drop down into C-Level Cirque. Most of the climbs were
established during the 70’s by Chic Scott, Lloyd MacKay and Ken Baker, all of whom
were prominent Banff pioneers at that time. They generally follow the more obvious
Eight pitch sport route in Echo Canyon above Canmore
Topo for Kid Goat routes and retros:
1. It's Now or Never (5.11a) . Nigel & Rosie Slater. June 2010. Breaks out left from midway anchor on Mempis. 6 (new) clips (total 13). <30 m to ground.
2. Unnamed route to R of Honeymoon in Vegas is called Moody Blue, 11b. Nigel & Rosie Slater. October 2007.
Rif Raf Ridge 5.8, 300m
FA: B Pullan, Darren Vonk May 11
Gear: Single rack, one 60m rope.
Approach: As for west end of Yam, cross col to Goat Mountain and base of ridge.
Descent: Scramble down climbers right to large top of large bowl, rap off slung blocks and trees: 6 single rope rappels.
NOTE: The route is mostly class 5 with 4 steeper steps requiring ropes. some rock is loose but gets really great higher up. the position and vantage of Yam is nice. There is a nice crack system for the upper half.
A great route climbing a broken up series of cracks and chimneys in an area that could reveal some hard slab routes!
Approach: As for Upper Norquay to Escargot Corner
Gear: 2 X 60m Ropes, standard rack to four inches.
I've updated the Gray Waves topo to reflect the current state of the route.
I cleaned one old piton below the crux move on pitch three and replaced with a bolt.
"This route was put up in tribute to Jiro Kurihara who passed away in an avalanche in Alaska in May 2011.
Jiro was a passionate climber who lived in Canmore because he loved the Canadian Rockies.
The route was bolted ground up on four days in July 2011. Mike Shoemaker, Christoph Spiegel, Aki Tawara, and Patrick Lindsay were patient belay partners on the first four days. Thank you very much.
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