Don't Rock the Boatswain - 14b
Submitted by carlsonmark on Fri, 06/15/2018 - 18:59From Miles Adamson:
Don’t Rock The Boatswain
FA of P1-P6: Miles Adamson and Zach Watson, September 2017
FA of P7: Miles Adamson, June 2018
From Miles Adamson:
FA of P1-P6: Miles Adamson and Zach Watson, September 2017
FA of P7: Miles Adamson, June 2018
From Marc Piché
The Alt-Left, EEOR 5.11b A0, 335m
Marc Piché, Steve Holeczi Aug. 15, 2016
Approach: Hike up as for True Grit, Geriatric, Econoline. Start ~15m left of a lone spruce tree at the base of the wall and ~15 m right of Econoline. The first bolt has a black hanger and is ~8m above the ground
P1- 50m,5.9: Climb up on good rock with some delicate moves to a good ledge and anchor after 30m. Either belay here or preferably ascend another 20m (5.8) to a bolted anchor on a loose ledge.
A long fully bolted route on the Goat Wall, next to Goat Buttress.
Requires one 60m rope, 12 quickdraws, and 6 shoulder length slings.
The approach is 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on how lost you get. Use this Google map to keep the approach time down.
Expect to take 9 to 13 hours on the ascent.
From Chas Yonge:
Heart Line 5.9, A1 - 1.1km
A sport mountaineering adventure which takes you from Heart Creek to the mountain summit! Great views on
the way! Gear: 12 quick draws, 2 long slings
From J Brent Peters via the TABVAR Facebook Page:
See here for details:
http://www.peakstratagem.com/the-drive-in-drytooling
As of 17 October 2016, there are 6 routes at The Drive-In. The first route that you come to starts in up a broken wall to a left facing corner just beyond where the approach trail reaches the cliff. The routes are described from left to right:
From J Brent Peters
http://www.peakstratagem.com/the-playground-drytooling
The routes at The Playground are described from left to right. It can be divided into 5 areas: Upper Cave, Playground Left, Swiss Cheese Cave, Rat’s Nest Wall, Mutt Wall, and Recess Wall.
Upper Cave: This cave is located left and above The Playground proper. There is only one route here at this time.
Just The Tip D7 This route climbs vertical terrain to the right of a large cave. FA: Michelle Kadatz, Steve Kovalenko
From Don McPhalen:
July 2016 Update - Creekside Crag Cougar Creek
The routes listed as #4, 5, 7, 14, 15 and 19 in the Bow Valley Sport book have been retrofitted with permission. Each route now has its own anchor. The bolt positions and numbers have changed to update the routes post flood. In addition a “second pitch” has been added to route #4 - this may be a good setup to practice the up and down of multipitching.
From Paul Taylor via Facebook:
“CHAIN UP”
5.11c, 5 pitch sport
Echo Canyon, Tall Story Wall (far left)
By: Paul Taylor and Paul Gardner, August 2015
From Grzegorz Tos via Facebook:
Bit of heads up for those heading into Echo Canyon this spring. Since the last print of Bow Valley Sport guide book a lot has happened in the canyon. To avoid confusion look through all the updates on TABVAR page for walls that you are interested in. From what I can tell all guys involved have been good at posting updates here. Some sectors have more than twice as many routes as in the guide book. Example is The Balcony. Attached is a nice topo put together by Bonar McCallum.
From Grzegorz Tos via Facebook:
Lookout Update
The Shield area (page 160,161 Bow Valley Sport)
This little gem of a spot is often overlooked but offers a great spectrum of grades of routes with five star quality. Perfect in Spring and Fall. Gets sun from 9:30 till 4:00.
TABVAR - The Association of Bow Valley Rock Climbers
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