Eastern Posers
Submitted by carlsonmark on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 21:05East Face of Second Buttress of Rundle
Eastern Posers 5.9+R, 450m
FA: BP and MB Sept 09
East Face of Second Buttress of Rundle
Eastern Posers 5.9+R, 450m
FA: BP and MB Sept 09
This six-pitch mixed route ascends the centre line of Gobi Buttress on the NNE side of Mount McGillivray.
The route climbs an aesthetic buttress on above-average quality limestone with some worthwhile gear climbing.
See attached files for complete description.
Climbing is mostly 5.6-5.7 with short cruxes.
Perpetual Spring, 350 meters, M7, Canmore Wall
FA Feb. 18, 2015
Alik Berg, Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted
I believe this is the first winter ascent of the Canmore Wall.
Full info on the topo - click here to view PDF
Gift Card 90M 10C
Armadillo Buttress, Grotto Canyon, Alberta.
Ian Greant, Brian Spear - 2013
This three pitch route is fully bolt protected with rap rings at each station.
I believe it crosses Asylum (10D, 1984, pg 423 Bow Valley Rock banffrock.ca for PDF copy) on the 3rd pitch.
Gear required: 70m rope (a 60M may work for descent but have not tested it)
14 draws (if you use a directional off the belay and want to clip the station when you arrive)
Summer 2013 Update.
"The name is slang for someone who holds moderately leftist views and the route keeps trending left (quoted from Jones who did the FA with George Homer in '73) Sustained 5.8 climbing with occasional 5.10- moves. Intricate rock with amazing position and positive belay stances. Could be the Squamish Buttress of Canmore with more traffic," said Jon Walsh.
Click here for route topo and photos. Files were too large for webpage so threw it together as a blog. http://brandopullan.blogspot.ca/2013/09/hot-fuzz.html Cheers!(Edited by Mark Carlson) Brandon's photo from the TABVAR Facebook Page has been added.
From Ian Perry's Aug 19 post on https://www.facebook.com/groups/tabvar/
A year or so back, Greg Tos added a new multi-pitch sport route to the right of Prospect. It is 3 pitches long - 5.11a, 5.11a and 5.12a. The last pitch can be made easier by doing one A0 move. A topo of it, and Prospect is attached.
Chris Perry
"This route was put up in tribute to Jiro Kurihara who passed away in an avalanche in Alaska in May 2011.
Jiro was a passionate climber who lived in Canmore because he loved the Canadian Rockies.
The route was bolted ground up on four days in July 2011. Mike Shoemaker, Christoph Spiegel, Aki Tawara, and Patrick Lindsay were patient belay partners on the first four days. Thank you very much.
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