About a dozen new routes have been added and the base of Corral (Paddock) Wall Right was severely undercut in the 2013 flood. Topos are correct as of this Fall (2014) but some information is missing with regard to grades and first ascents. Please comment on Tabvar Facebook.
Note: New routes are identified by blue type.
This new route (5.11) climbs a long corner system parallel to Homage to the Spider on the wall to its left. Full description and topo.
Updated version of Sunshine Slab area topo previously posted. The shortest approach in the Rockies, located at the intersection of Healy Creek and the Sunshine Ski Area access road. Be careful not to damage bolt hangers when opening your car door.
A great route climbing a broken up series of cracks and chimneys in an area that could reveal some hard slab routes!
Approach: As for Upper Norquay to Escargot Corner
Gear: 2 X 60m Ropes, standard rack to four inches.
This section of cliff is the most extensive of all the buttresses in the long line of cliffs that
runs along the base of Cascade Mountain. It stretches eastward (northward) from the deep gully that separates it from Mothers Day Buttress to
the long, southeast ridge of Cascade Mountain (Minnewanka Buttress) where the cliffs
curve around to the north and drop down into C-Level Cirque. Most of the climbs were
established during the 70’s by Chic Scott, Lloyd MacKay and Ken Baker, all of whom
were prominent Banff pioneers at that time. They generally follow the more obvious
1st ascent: Allan Derbyshire, Choc Quinn, Kevin Embacher
Page 124, 6th Ed Updated (2009).
Niagra on the Bow 5.9+ 245m
FA: Brandon Pullan, Urs Kallen Sept. 09
Approach: As for Cory’s Groove on Mt. Cory.
The route climbs the face right of the large black slab, up a series of corner. All anchors are rigged with ring bolts.
P1: (55m, 5.8) Start as for Cory’s Groove, after the first bolt traverse up to a blocky yellow corner past 2 bolts.
P2: (45m,5.9+) Aim for the large corner, stem up this awesome pitch passing a few bolts to a ledge.
The left side of this buttress forms an attractive prow which is very prominent from the highway and is the line of the classic, moderate route Mothers Day. Currently, there are only four routes on the buttress despite it having some of the best rock on the entire band of cliffs. One particular area of interest is the steep, gray rock in the lower part of the buttress to the right of Mothers Day and each side of Ant Tease Day. A few bolts and some effort may produce some good one or two pitch sport routes in this area.
Another multi-pitch sport route recently revealed by Dave Thomson. The climbing is "technical" so don't expect to find the grades soft. Wait for warm weather (next year?) Dave was one bolt short somewhere on the last (?) pitch, so be prepared to run it out a little more there or carry a telescopic stick to clip the next bolt until someone installs the bolt (the hole is drilled).
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