The Cupcake Conspiracy.

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The Cupcake Conspiracy.

5 pitches, 150m, 5.11+ First ascent Michelle Kadatz and Jon Walsh, June 12, 2016. A fun bolted route in the on mostly excellent rock in the middle of the South facing Bonanza Bay wall, about halfway between Bonanza and the Bonanza decent gully. All belay stations are equipped with Fixe rap rings. 16 draws needed and 2 or 3 of them should be extendable. Two ropes is best for getting back down. A 70-meter rope works for all rappels, although at this point, it’s unknown if it will get you down pitch 2 but likely very close.
Lots more potential around here for more routes like this one!
The grades aren’t confirmed although the route has already had one repeat.

Pitch 1, 5.10a 10 bolts, 35-meters. It starts behind two good sized spruce trees about 50 meters right of Bonanza, and should be easy to find. Follow the bolt line to good ledge.
Pitch 2, 5.11c/d 15 bolts, 40-meters. Face climb up and right from the belay towards a blue-streaked corner. Head left at a roof (extendable draws useful here), and continue trending up and left around the corner to small ledge and a station.
Pitch 3, 5.11d/12a 7 bolts, 15-meters. Head up and right towards a roof, before making a crux move back left through it, which leads to a station at a decent stance.
Pitch 4, 5.10b 10 bolts, 35-meters. Prickly featured holds lead up perfect grey rock to an anchor at a big ledge on the right.
Pitch 5, 5.10d 11 bolts, 35-meters. Straightforward face climbing to the rim.

Routebuilder: 
Michelle Kadatz, Jon Walsh
Route Year: 
2016
Route Grade: 
Route Location: