Sam's Gift 13a, 190m
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From Sam Eastman via the TABVAR Facebook page.
Sam Lambert and myself put in a fully bolted 5 pitch rig on the lower and farthest east buttress of Castle.
Sam's gift 13a.
Approach is the same as for Castles in the sky. Use the same trail as for Eisenhower tower, except when you break above tree line look left to a rambling scree ledge that splits the lower buttress.
1st 12+ 35M. Slight overhung and cryptic.
2nd. 12+45M. Dihedral to Burly roof. (fixed draw at crux.)
(Move the belay from the top of p2, up and right over a small scree ledge to the base of p3.)
3rd. 13. 52M. overhung corner/face to savage boulder problem.
4th. 11. 22M. sidepulls on really good rock.
5th. 12. 35M. The best pitch on the route, perfect stone, albeit a bit dirty.
Bring 25 draws, and two 60's to rap. The second pitch requires some savage back cleaning. Topping out and walking off can be a better option.
As this is a new rig, there is loose rock.
We cleaned all the biggest and most obvious blocks, although you do need to pass through a very loose black band on the start of P1.
A Brush is also super useful.
