Prairie Creek - New Routes
Submitted by carlsonmark on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 21:15
Chicklet Fangs (5.10+; 6 bolts+anchors). Start ~20m uphill from Alberta Bound/Got Mersey Beat. Climb up the steep, bulge, moving left until below an open book corner. Climb up into the corner with difficulty and then cruise to the top. There is a "right" way and a hard way to do this. ;)
New routes where the approach trail meets the wall: (comment from Jon)
I climbed these (4) routes yesterday. L to R:
5.11- 8m 4 clips.
5.11+ 8m 5 clips steep and entertaining . Short but quite good.
5.11- 11m 4 clips starts up obvious corner and then steep face on L. A bit weird getting to anchor.
5-10- 10m 5 clips steep bulge to easy slab.
All could do with more cleaning as the builder(s) only cleaned the holds that they used. Also, all the anchors except the corner route need fixing as they comprise single quick-links through hangers so that the lowering link parallels the rock.
5.11- 8m 4 clips.
5.11+ 8m 5 clips steep and entertaining . Short but quite good.
5.11- 11m 4 clips starts up obvious corner and then steep face on L. A bit weird getting to anchor.
5-10- 10m 5 clips steep bulge to easy slab.
All could do with more cleaning as the builder(s) only cleaned the holds that they used. Also, all the anchors except the corner route need fixing as they comprise single quick-links through hangers so that the lowering link parallels the rock.
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